Arugula (Eruca vesicaria subsp. sativa) may be a fast-growing annual vegetable that you simply can start planting in early spring or late summer and may replant throughout each season . This not only ensures a bountiful harvest; it also encourages you to select the leaves early, once they have a fresh, peppery zing but without the bitterness of mature leaves. Waiting until the plants mature and flower, or bolt, renders the leaves unpalatable, although both the flowers and therefore the mature leaves are edible.

Arugula is one among the cold-season vegetables, along side spinach, kale, et al. . it’s able to harvest about 40 days after seeding. If you time it right, you’ll have two arugula seasons, one in spring to early summer and another in late summer into fall. It won’t grow well within the high heat of midsummer. Arugula plants are relatively small and self-contained, so they’re easy to grow in containers or any garden space.

Arugula Care

Most gardeners start arugula from seed. It are often direct-seeded into the garden about one to 2 weeks before the ultimate frost in spring. Like most salad greens, arugula seeds are tiny, so you’ve got to take care to not plant them too deep. Choose a location (or locate your container) fully sun or, for a extended season, a neighborhood with midday shade. To sow the seeds:

• Prepare the soil with compost or a high-nitrogen fertilizer (or fill your container with potting mix), and gently flatten it out together with your hand.
• Distribute the seeds as uniformly as possible over the soil.
• Gently pat the seeds onto the soil together with your palm.
• Cover the seeds very lightly with soil or seed starting mix over the seeds, and pat gently.
• Add water carefully, either employing a rose attachment or a mild spray from the hose. You don’t want the water pressure or weight of the water to disturb your seeds and drive them too deeply into the soil.
• Once the seedlings emerge, thin them to a spacing of 4 to six inches (eat the baby greens right away; they’re delicious!). If you’re keen on arugula, you’ll succession plant more seeds every fortnight to form the foremost of the season while the mild temperatures last.

Light

Arugula grows best full sun, but it doesn’t sort of a lot of warmth. If possible, grow it full sun while the weather is comparatively cool, then provide some afternoon shade because the temperature rises.

Soil

Arugula plants are happiest in well-drained soil that’s slightly acidic to neutral, about 6.0 to 7.0 pH. It tolerates a spread of soil types but likes it fairly rich; add compost or high-nitrogen fertilizer as required.

Water

Like many vegetables, arugula needs regular watering for healthy, consistent growth and optimal flavor. Keep the soil consistently moist, watering as soon because the top 1 inch of soil feels dry. In dry climates, this might mean watering every morning. If you fail to water regularly, you’ll force the plants to bolt, ruining the flavor of the leaves.

Temperature and Humidity

The ideal temperature range for arugula plants is between 45 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. It can’t survive a frost, and it doesn’t just like the high heat of summer. you’ll extend its season somewhat by protecting it from cold with row covers, and from heat with shading, but the simplest strategy is to plant it at the proper times and harvest the leaves as soon as they’re ready. It doesn’t need high humidity and grows quite well in arid climates, provided it gets enough water.

Fertilizer

As long as you plant your arugula in nitrogen-rich soil, it shouldn’t need additional feeding. Pale leaves indicate a scarcity of nourishment.

Varieties of Arugula

• ‘Astro II’ could be considered an honest “starter” variety, for those that prefer a light arugula flavor profile. It also matures relatively early, in as little as 7 weeks.
• ‘Apollo’ is another mild variety. it’s relatively heat-tolerant and has oval leaves.
• ‘Olive Leaf’: Italian speakers know this better as Rucola Selvatica a Foglia D’Ulivo. This wild variety has flat, narrow leaves with spicy yet not overpowering flavor.
• ‘Red Dragon’ is right for salads, with its striking, purple-veined leaves that are shaped like oak leaves and have a light flavor.
• ‘Sylvetta’ is prized for being particularly slow to bolt. Its leaves are narrow and spicy.

Growing in Containers

Because the roots of arugula are relatively shallow, you don’t need an enormous or deep container to grow the plant. However, consider planting a good amount of arugula—once you get a taste for it, you would possibly find you’re eating a lot! Therefore, pick a container that’s wide. Although you’ll grow arugula in almost anything, a self-watering container makes the entire task tons easier.

Harvesting Arugula

Your arugula should be full-grown and prepared to reap in about four to seven weeks, counting on the variability. The younger the leaves, the more tender and sweet they’re going to be, so don’t wait too long to start out picking them.

Once the seedlings are 3 to 4 inches long, you’ll either pull out the entire plant or thin them out. If you would like the plants to still grow, you’ll collect just the outer leaves by cutting or tearing them off toward the bottom , and leave the crown intact. Alternatively, you’ll stop all the leaves just above the soil, and therefore the plant may regrow if the weather remains relatively cool.

If you wait too long to reap and therefore the plant bolts, eat the flowers but not the leaves. The flowers appear after the leaves have grown to full size and are too bitter to eat. Pick the flowers off and eat them or add them to a salad or an open-faced sandwich for a gorgeous treat. you’ll also grow some arugula plants for the flowers alone.

Common Pests and Diseases

The short, early season of arugula means you’ll miss most pest infestations within the spring, but perhaps not if you plant again in late summer. Arugula plants are favored by slugs also as cabbage loopers, flea beetles, aphids, and diamondback moths. Keep an eye fixed out for insect eggs, and take away any you discover by hand. Aphids are often sprayed off with water. Stop slugs from reaching the tender leaves with beer traps, diatomite, or another traditional method.