Garlic are often planted in spring or in fall. Spring planted garlic is harvested late within the summer or early autumn. Fall planted garlic is harvested in mid-summer, the summer after fall planting. Fall planted garlic will produce larger bulbs and cloves than spring-planted garlic.

1. Plant garlic in spring 4 to six weeks before the last average frost date.
2. Fall-planted garlic should be set within the ground in mid-October; plant a few of weeks earlier in very cold winter regions; plant a few of weeks later in mild-winter regions.
3. Fall planted garlic should be within the ground 6 to eight weeks before the primary expected frost.

Wherever you plant, confine mind garlic requires cool temperatures of 32° to 50°F (0-10°C) during its first two months of growth. Cool temperatures at planting time are important for garlic to determine its extensive rootage .

WHERE TO PLANT GARLIC

1. Plant garlic fully sun
2. Plant garlic in loose, humus-rich soil that’s well-drained.
3. Plant during a raised or mounded bed if you reside where the bottom will freeze in winter.
4. Garlic prefers a soil pH of 6.0 to 7.0.
5. Garlic planting in row

Garlic requires cool temperatures of 32° to 50°F during its first two months of growth.

GARLIC PLANTING TIME

1. Garlic requires cool air temperatures of 32° to 50°F (0-10°C) during its first two months of growth when roots are established and bulbs begin to make. Garlic isn’t suffering from the weather because it matures.
2. Plant garlic in spring while the soil remains cool. you’ll plant 4 to six weeks before the last spring frost or as soon because the soil has thawed and is workable. Spring planting will come to reap at the top of the season, about 120-150 days after planting.
3. Plant garlic in late summer or autumn because the soil again begins to chill . Plant about 6 weeks before the primary freeze. Autumn planting will come to reap about the center of the subsequent summer.

Planting tips: Planting Garlic.Garlic cloves to plant

PLANTING AND SPACING GARLIC

• Grow garlic from cloves or bulblets. Set cloves within the ground plump side down (that is that the root side) and pointed side up.
• Set cloves 1 to 2 inches (2.5-10cm) deep and 6 to eight inches (15-20cm) apart.
• Space rows 12 inches (30cm) apart.
• Add a tablespoon of 5-10-10 fertilizer or bone meal or organic to the rock bottom of the opening at planting time. Sprinkle a touch of soil over the fertilizer before setting the clove in situ.
• Plant only firm, healthy-looking bulbs or cloves that are insect and disease-free.
• Separate cloves carefully to avoid bruising and to stay the skins intact (do not remove the skins). Plant the most important cloves; use small cloves for cooking.
• Plant garlic purchased from seed catalogs, a garden center, or that you simply have grown yourself. Garlic from a grocery may are treated with a growth inhibitor.
• Garlic from an area or nearby grower is probably going to be a cultivar that will grow well in your area.
• If you’re using bulbs harvested from your garden the season before, plant the plump outer cloves; use small center cloves for cooking. (The average garlic bulb weighs 2-3 ounces and yields 6 to eight plantable cloves.)
• Plant 12 to 16 plants per person.
• Autumn-planted cloves will establish their rootage before the primary freeze. Roots and shoots will resume growth in early autumn.

Keep the soil moist during the growing time but not wet. Reduce water as bulbs near maturity.

WATERING GARLIC

• Keep the soil moist but not wet after planting. If the soil freezes in winter, roots will resume growth in spring; resume watering in spring also. Keep the soil moist during the growing time but not wet.
• Reduce water as bulbs near maturity. Allow the soil to travel just dry soil 3 to 4 weeks before harvest; this may improve the flavor of garlic.

FEEDING GARLIC

1. Add well-aged compost or a billboard organic planting mix to planting beds twice a year.
2. Mist-spray garlic leaves every fortnight with fish emulsion or kelp extract. Side dress plants with a light-weight application of feed.
3. Begin feeding garlic that has been within the ground over the winter in spring because the days begin to elongate.
4. Heavy applications of nitrogen-rich fertilizers will decrease the flavor of garlic bulbs; use a 5-10-10 formula if you apply fertilizer.

COMPANION PLANTS FOR GARLIC

• Plant garlic with beets, lettuce, strawberries, summer savory, and tomatoes.
  Weed-free garlic planting bed

Weeds will compete with garlic plants for moisture and nutrients. Keep the planting bed weed-free.

CARING FOR GARLIC

1. Keep planting beds weed-free.
2. Mulch around plants with aged compost to stay down weeds and to feed the plants.
3. Pinch away blossom if you’re growing hard-neck garlic to focus a plant’s efforts on bulb formation instead of foliage. Flowers will appear in early summer. (Flower stalks are often added to stir-frys.)
4. Mulch planting beds heavily with straw or hay before the primary hard freeze if garlic is staying within the ground over the winter.
5. When stems begin to yellow, bend them to the bottom without breaking them; this is often called “lodging” and promotes bulb formation.
6. Avoid planting garlic where onions or garlic have recently grown.

CONTAINER GROWING GARLIC

• Garlic isn’t an excellent candidate for growing in containers. Choose a container that’s a minimum of 15 inches (38cm) wide and deep.

GARLIC PESTS

• Onion thrips may attack garlic. Spray them away with an important stream of water.

GARLIC DISEASES

1. Mildew may occur during a warm moist environment. Keep plants dry.
2. Destroy bulbs with any sign of disease—mold, mildew, wilted leaves, or soft spots.
3. Do not plant garlic or other onion family crops within the same bed quite once every three years.
4. In onion maggots or wireworms are a drag within the past, apply parasitic nematodes to the soil at planting time.

The skins of garlic bulbs should be thick, dry, and papery at harvest .

HARVESTING GARLIC

1. Harvest bulbs when the tops start to dry and switch brown, about 2 to three weeks after lodging. About 75 percent of the highest growth should be brown at harvest.
2. To know if bulbs are ready for harvest, lift one or two and break them apart. If bulbs are unsegmented and difficult to separate, it’s too early. Check again during a week or two.
3. Ripe bulbs should easily shy away from the stems.
4. The skins of bulbs good for harvest are going to be thick, dry, and papery.
5. The skins of bulbs left within the ground too long are going to be loose and deteriorate; these bulbs are going to be inferior and not keep well. it’s better to reap a touch early than too late.
6. Lift garlic bulbs with a garden fork being careful to not bruise or cut the skins.
7. Allow bulbs to dry in an airy place for 3 to 4 weeks after harvest until the outer skins turn papery.
8. Save the most important bulbs to replant next season.

Cure garlic during a hot, dry, dark place with good air circulation. Cure bulbs for 2 to 3 weeks.

STORING AND PRESERVING GARLIC

1. Use garlic fresh or cure it for storage.
2. Cure garlic during a hot, dry, dark place with good air circulation. Cure bulbs for 2 to 3 weeks.
3. You can hang garlic in loose bunches to cure. Braid the tops of the plants along side twine and hang them to dry.
4. Cure garlic at 60° to 90°F (15-32°C).
5. Trim away the leaves and roots after the garlic has cured.
6. Store mature bulbs during a cool, dry location during a mesh or net bag.
7. Garlic are often stored for five to eight months at 35° to 40°F (1.7-4.4°C).
8. Peeled cloves are often stored in an air-tight container within the freezer.
9. Peeled garlic cloves are often canned or frozen.
10. Fresh garlic leaves are often snipped and used like chives.

Hard-neck garlic will set bulblets at the highest of twisted flower stalks additionally to the underground bulbs.

GARLIC TYPES AND VARIETIES

There are three sorts of garlic: hard-neck, soft-neck, and elephant.

• Hard-neck garlic (also referred to as top-setting garlic, serpent garlic, or rocambole) will grow one ring of cloves around the stem. Hard-neck garlic is extremely cold hardy but doesn’t store well. the flavor of hard-neck garlic is mild compared to soft-neck garlic. Hard-neck garlic will set bulblets at the highest of twisted flower stalks additionally to the underground bulbs. The green stems are called scapes. Scapes are often harvested and stir-fried without harming the bulbs within the ground. Hard-neck varieties include ‘Spanish Rojo’, ‘German Red’, Korean Red’, ‘Chesnok Red’, ‘Siberian’, ‘Brown Tempest’, ‘Chet’s Italian Purple’, ‘Georgian Crystal’, ’German Extra Heavy’, and ‘Duganski’.
• Soft-neck garlic (also referred to as silverskin or artichoke garlic) commonly grows larger bulbs than hard-neck garlic. The neck or stem is soft compared to hard-neck varieties. the flavor of soft-neck garlic is robust and intense. Soft-neck varieties include: ‘Silverskin’, ‘California Early’, ‘California Late’, ‘California White’, ‘Lorz Italian’, ‘New York White’, ‘Polish White’, and ‘Inchelium Red’.
• Elephant garlic is additionally called great-headed garlic. Elephant garlic isn’t true garlic; it’s more closely associated with leeks. Elephant garlic has large bulbs and about 4 cloves for every bulb.

ABOUT GARLIC

1. Garlic may be a hardy perennial bulb plant grown for its papery white bulbs that contain clusters of individual cloves.
2. Cloves are strong-flavored eaten raw and mild-tasting cooked. Garlic grows to maturity in about 90 days.
3. The botanical name of soft-neck garlic is garlic sativum. The botanical name of hard-neck garlic may be a. sativum subsp. ophioscorodon.
4. Origin: South Europe