Growing Watermelon

Watermelons need warmth, water, sun, and space. But if you’re short on warmth–you sleep in a short-summer region–or space, not much yard, you’ll still grow delicious, sweet watermelons during a home garden.


Large watermelons require 4 months of frost-free, very warm weather to return to reap which they will garbage down the maximum amount as 144 square feet (13 sq. meters) of space. But if you’ve got but 90 growing days, you’ll still harvest a watermelon. (See the short-season list below.) And if you’ve got as little as 12 to 16 square feet–that’s 4 feet by 4 feet (1.2m x 1.2m), you continue to have enough space to grow watermelon. (See the short vine or bush variety list below.)watermelon seedlings

watermelon seedlings

Get watermelons off to an honest start: plant in loamy, compost-rich soil fully sun.


Plant watermelons in light loam to sandy-loam soil; avoid planting in heavy or clay soil. Plant when the soil temperature has warmed to a minimum of 70°F. (You can get a start in cool regions by sowing watermelons indoors 6 weeks before planting out.)

Center your vine within the space you’ve got , and dig a hole 3 feet (.9m) in diameter and 12 to 18 inches (30-45cm) deep, a touch deeper within the center. Add rich compost or planting mix to the opening and tamp it down; watermelons require consistent even watering, this compost-rich planting bed will function a moisture reservoir. Mound the soil above the re-filled in bed to six inches (15cm) tall. Plant 5 to six seeds or set two starts on this mound. Thin to the strongest plant. Space mounds 12 feet (3.6m) apart unless you’re planting the short vine, bush varieties listed below–then you’ll plant a 3rd to half that distance.


Your yield are going to be small if you don’t keep watermelons irrigated. If you depend on rain and rain is briefly supply, get as early a start as possible. Watermelon roots will do their part to seek out moisture; they’re going to grow to six feet (1.8m) deep. Irrigation will increase yields.


Watermelon plants have separate male and feminine flowers so bees are required for pollination. Thin each planting mound to no quite two melons for best results.


Once watermelon fruits begin to develop, place a board, a bit of tile or plastic, or thick straw mulch under each fruit. this may reduce contact with the soil and lessen insect damage or rotten spots on the rock bottom of the fruit. A board, tile, or piece of plastic will take in solar heat and transfer it to the melon. watermelon on board

watermelon on board

Watermelon sitting abreast of wooden slats to stop contact with soil and attract solar heat.



  • Bush Charleston Gray. (F) 90 days. High sugar content. Small, oblong fruit almost like Charleston Gray apart from the smaller size of fruit and vine; weighs10 to 13 pounds. Gray-green rind; flesh crimson , fine-textured. Needs just 3 to five feet across. Ideal for little gardens. Open-pollinated.
  • Bush Jubilee. (AN, F) 90-100 days. Sweet, high sugar content. Small, oblong fruit to 24 inches long; weighs 25 to 35 pounds. Light green rind with dark green stripes; bright red flesh, firm texture. Spreads just 3 to five feet. Open-pollinated.
  • Bush Sugar Baby. 75-80 days. Juicy, sweet flesh. Small, round fruit; weighs 12 pounds; dark green rind with no stripes; red flesh. Vine spreads just 3 to 3½ feet. Open-pollinated.


  • Calsweet. (F). 90-92 days. Sweet. Large, oblong fruit to about 17 inches; weighs 25 to 30 pounds. Rind light green with dark green stripes; bright red flesh. Open-pollinated.
  • Charleston Gray. (AN, F). 85-100 days. Excellent, crisp flavor. Large, cylindrical fruit to 24 inches long; weighs 30 to 35 pounds. the skinny but tough rind is light greenish-gray; red flesh. Vigorous vine. Sunburn and warmth resistant. Open-pollinated.
  • Crimson Sweet. (AAS, AN, F). 80-97 days. Very sweet, high sugar content. Large, slightly elongated fruit to12 inches long; weighs 35 to 30 pounds. Thick, hard rind; light green darker green stripes; bright red flesh, fine texture. Open-pollinated.
  • King of Hearts. 80-85 days. Sweet, delicious, crisp. Oval-shaped; thick green rind with medium green stripes. Bright red flesh, medium texture. Hybrid.
  • Sugar Baby. 68-86 days. Big melon sweetness. Small, round fruit fits within the icebox, 6 to eight inches long; weighs 8 to 10 pounds. Thick, dark green rind turns almost black; bright red-orange flesh, fine texture. Excellent for a home garden. Open-pollinated.


  • Cole’s Early. 80 days. Sweet, good quality. Broad, oval fruit; weights15-20 pounds. Thin rind; dark green with light green stripes; light red flesh. Popular in northern states. Open-pollinated.
  • Sugar Baby. See above.
  • Fordhook Hybrid. 75 days. Juicy, delicious. Weighs 14 pounds. Red flesh. Vigorous grower.
  • Yellow-flesh fruit.
  • Yellow Baby. (AAS) 75 days. Sweet, excellent flavor. Small, round to oval fruit to 7 inches in diameter; weighs 8 to 10 pounds. Thin rind; light green with darker green stripes; bright yellow flesh. Good storage. Hybrid.
  • Yellow Doll. 65-70 days. Extra sweet, crisp. Small, round to oval fruit; weighs 4 to eight pounds. Thin rind; green with dark green stripes; yellow flesh. Semi-compact vine. Open-pollinated.

Propagation and Planting Watermelon in Pot

Watermelon has a long taproot and it doesn’t transplant well that’s why it’s better to sow the seeds directly during a pot. Sow 3-4 seeds directly during a pot once the temperature starts to succeed in 65 F (19 C) and above within the spring. In tropics (USDA Zone 10-11), the simplest time to sow seeds is winter and early spring. The germination takes place within 6 to 10 days. Thin out and leave just one of the strongest seedlings per pot.

Choosing a Pot

Growing watermelon in containers isn’t much difficult though tricky. you would like to know the fundamentals. As watermelon has a long taproot choosing a deep pot is importantan outsized pot or bucket that’s a minimum of 2 feet deep and half wide is required.


To know everything about watermelon varieties, see this excellent guide at Washington State University site.

Requirements for Growing Watermelon in Containers

How to grow watermelon in pot

How to grow watermelon in pot

Watermelons should be grown during a sunny position. If you’re growing it on a balcony or on a garden where space is tight, growing watermelon vertically on a trellis may be a solution. Trellis should be minimum 4 feet tall and durable enough to hold the load of melons.


Watermelons are warm-weather annuals but they will be planted in both tropical and temperate regions easily. it’s possible to grow watermelons at a temperature around 50-95 F (10-35 C). The optimum growing temperature is around 65-85 F (18-30 C).


Sandy and loamy soil are suitable for growing watermelons. The ideal soil pH is around 6 – 6.8. Avoid compact, clayey soils. Airy and well-drained substrate promotes the expansion of the plant. Also, the application of the well-rotted horse, rabbit, or manure improves the feel of soil and provides nutrients constantly.


watermelon in pot

Watermelon requires tons of water. Keep the soil evenly moist but not wet, the water must drain freely from rock bottom. When growing watermelon in containers, you’ll get to water the plant a day and sometimes twice during a warm day. Once the fruits start to swell and mature, reduce the watering. therein period, water carefully and moderately. Avoid overwatering and underwatering both to urge the sweetest melons.


Start to fertilize the plant with an entire liquid fertilizer. Once, the plant starts to flower and appear to like fruits, use a fertilizer with less nitrogen. Consider liquid seaweed fertilizer.


To get a healthy and more productive plant, only allow the most vine to grow. When the plant is young, remove side branches before they grow more. Also, remove those items that are damaged and diseased.


Watermelon vine produces both male and feminine flowers separately. However, pollinators (bees and butterflies) will pollinate them but to make certain you’ll get to hand-pollinate the flowers to form sure you get fruits. the primary ripe fruits appear after approx. 40 days after pollination of flowers.

Diseases and Pests

Usually, you’ll easily care about and appearance after the watermelon growing during a pot. Still, it’s little susceptible to diseases when exposed to too hot-humid or too weather, or thanks to waterlogged soil. Common garden pests like aphids, cucumber beetles, and people that affect the squashes and cucumbers can infect it.


Watermelon plant on a balcony

The harvesting period depends on the climate, season, and variety. Generally, it always begins 80-90 days later after seed sowing and between 30 to 50 days after flowering. Flowering and fruit setting continue for several weeks until the weather remains favorable and you’ll get several harvests.

Ripe fruit doesn’t seem special. Smell and no change in color of the skin occurs. to ascertain if the fruit is ripe, you ought to knock with fingers on the surface of the watermelon. If you hear a dead, hollow sound, this suggests that the fruit is already ripe. Another method is to see the tendril if it’s fading and half dead then your watermelon is nearly ripe. If it’s faded, the fruit is ripe or overripe.

Helpful Tips

  • In cool short summer climates, start the seeds indoors or during a greenhouse either directly during a container or during a biodegradable pot.
  • Use tons of organic matter for growing watermelons in containers as they’re heavy feeders. Side dress your potted melon plant with manure or compost in every 3-4 weeks. Scrap and take away topsoil if there’s no space within the container.
  • Stress (change in temperature, pests or diseases, overwatering or lack of water) to the plant at the time when fruits are maturing, leads to less flavorsome and sweet fruits.
  • In a small space, growing melons vertically on a trellis may be a good way to save lots of space. Use netting, a bag or a stretchable cloth to make a hammock under the fruit to support it.
  • The trick for getting highest quality fruits is to don’t let the plant set numerous fruits. 2-3 fruits at an equivalent time for giant fruit varieties and 4-5 fruits for the smaller one is sufficient.
  • Do successive planting for normal harvests. Plant 2-4 plants and do an equivalent after 2 weeks.

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