Peonies are the spring-blooming stars of your garden. they need large, showy blooms and a lot of personality. By some estimates, there are as many as 33 different species within the Paeonia , known collectively as peonies. Most are herbaceous perennials, though a couple of are woody shrubs. Peonies are medium-sized, have tuberous roots that are a mixture of thick storage roots and thin roots that are designed to soak up water and nutrients.1 Careful handling of those roots is critical to planting or transplanting peonies, also as once you are dividing plants to propagate them.
Slow-growing peonies are categorized in many various ways, like by flower type or by growth habit. additionally to the familiar garden-variety herbaceous peonies with all their flower variations, there are special types like fern-leaf peonies (Paeonia tenuifolia), a very sensitive and prized species, and tree peonies, which are woody, upright forms. These types have some special planting needs.
Bloom time for peonies varies from late spring to late summer, counting on variety, but all kinds are best planted within the fall, about 6-weeks before the bottom freezes. this provides the plant time to settle in and establish roots before winter. this is often very true when planting bare root peonies or when transplanting, but even when planting potted peonies, fall planting gives better results than spring planting.
Botanical Name | Paeonia officinalis |
Common Name | Peony |
Plant Type | Herbaceous perennial, or woody shrub |
Sun Exposure | Full sun |
Soil Type | Well-draining |
Soil pH | 6.5-7.0 |
Bloom Time | Late spring to late summer |
Flower Color | White, pink, rose, red, deep purple, and coral |
Hardiness Zones | 3-9 (depending on variety) |
Native Area | Asia, Europe, and Western North America |
Toxicity | Mildly toxic to humans, toxic to pets and livestock |
Peony Care
Peonies are classic garden plants that will thrive for many years with minimal care when planted during a spot they like, in soil that meets their needs.1 one of the longest-lived of all garden plants, peonies are sometimes handed down from generation to generation in families. But it’s vital to try to to the initial planting correctly because peonies are often temperamental about being moved once they’re established.
Give each peony plant enough space to grow to maturitywithout being crowded. meaning a 3- to 4-foot diameter for every plant. Choose a location that’s sheltered from strong winds. Plant your peonies well faraway from other trees and shrubs, since they don’t wish to compete for nutrients and water.
Peonies sort of a good chill within the winter. so as to line their flower buds, peony roots should be planted relatively on the brink of the soil surface—only about 2-to 3-inches deep. it’s going to feel odd to go away roots so exposed, but peonies really need this chilling to achieve dormancy and set buds.
Light
Peonies need a location that receives a minimum of 6-hours of sun every day and a full day of sun is even better. Without sufficient sunlight, you’ll get fewer blooms and smaller flowers, and therefore the plants will have a greater risk of fungal diseases.
Soil
Peonies are very adaptable, but ideally, they sort of a well-drained, slightly acidic soil (6.5-7.0 pH). If you’re planting in heavy, clay soil, amending with compost or a soil mix labeled for azaleas and rhododendrons will make it easier for your peony plant to settle in. Since peonies can remain within the same spot for upwards of 70 years, taking the time to organize the soil before planting is time well spent.
Tree peonies sort of a slightly more alkaline soil than standard herbaceous peonies, and that they don’t want to compete with other shrubs.
Water
Peonies need moist, well-drained soil to thrive. Ideally, they ought to receive 1- to 2-inches of water weekly.1, they will thrive in relatively wet areas but aren’t drought-resistant. Mulch your peonies to assist them retain water and lessen the likelihood of weeds.
Temperature and Humidity
Peonies prefer cooler areas (hardiness zones 3-8) and do best once they experience cold winters.
Fertilizer
Feed lightly. An annual application of compost mixed with a really bit of fertilizer around the base of the plant is all that’s needed. once you do feed with compost and fertilizer, roll in the hay just after the plants have finished blooming.
Don’t smother peonies with mulch in winter. within the first winter season, you’ll mulch loosely with pine needles or shredded bark, but mulch should be promptly removed in spring.
Tree peonies need iron and phosphate and had best with an annual feeding of sulfate and bone meal in spring. Unlike herbaceous peonies, they have regular feeding with a 5-10-5 fertilizer.
Are Peonies Toxic?
All parts of peonies are poisonous to pets, livestock, and mildly to people because they contain the toxin phenol, which while concentrated within the bark is additionally found in small amounts within the flowers.
Symptoms of Poisoning
If your pets or livestock (or you!) eat peonies, you’ll experience nausea, vomiting, or diarrhea. For the four-legged among you, call your vet ASAP. In humans it’s less worrisome; we encourage you to call poison control for advice.
Peony Varieties
- ‘Big Ben’: boasts magenta flowers and a heady aroma
- ‘Festiva Maxima’: shows white blooms with specks of magenta
- ‘Pillow Talk‘: offers giant pink flowerheads with touches of yellow
- ‘Spider Green’: features a yellow center and enormous white petals
- ‘Sweet Marjorie’: presents hearty dark-pink blooms
Pruning
Peonies require little pruning. Once yours has finished blooming, crop dead stems and branches. If a stem appears diseased, crop before the affected part. If two branches rub against one another, remove the smallest amount of desirable branch. When pruning peonies, always crop to right above the primary bud.
Propagating Peonies
Peonies are best propagated by lifting and dividing the basis clump, then immediately replanting the divided pieces.1 A peony may require this after about 10 years when it begins to lose its vigor and becomes root-bound. Here, too, fall is that the best time for this activity. Just before you propose to divide, cut the foliage of the peony backtrack to ground level.
Dig up the whole plant and take away the maximum amount soil as possible by soaking with a hose. Using your hands, manipulate the roots into dividable portions, each with 3-5 “eyes”—small reddish buds that resemble potato eyes—then use a pointy knife to chop the tuberous root-clump into divisions.
Cut away all the small roots on each division, leaving only the massive , fleshy roots. Replant the divisions as soon as possible, following the instructions above.
Potting and Repotting Peonies
Peonies are typically purchased as potted plants in 1/2- or 1-gallon containers at the nursery or as bare roots, often packaged with sphagnum or excelsior in plastic bags. The peonies offered at plant society sales or plant swaps are fairly often the tuberous bare root varieties.
When choosing potted peonies, search for healthy specimens without leaf spots or weak-looking stems. When planting from bare tuberous roots, confirm the basis clump has a minimum of 3-5 eyes. These eyes will eventually elongate and become the plant’s stems. A mature peony should be a minimum of 3-4 years old before it’s divided into bare roots. Tuberous clumps with just one or two eyes should grow, but they’re going to take longer to become established plants.
If a longtime peony must be moved, transplanting should be done carefully to avoid disturbing the roots any longer than necessary. These plants can thrive within the same spot for many years , but moving one hastily can cause its demise. like any planting, fall is that the best time to maneuver a peony.
At the new planting site, till up the soil 12-18 inches deep, and blend during a 4-inch layer of compost or sphagnum . Water with 1-inch of water each day or two before transplanting. Your peony must be hydrated before moving it.
Dig round the root ball of the peony employing a sharp spade, getting the maximum amount soil as possible. Slide a tarp under the basis ball to stay it intact, then lift the plant from the bottom and punctiliously carry or slide it to the new location.
At the new location, dig a hole that’s twice as wide because the peony’s root ball, and exactly as deep because the root ball. Plant the peony at precisely the same depth because it was in its old location. Backfill round the plant. Tamp the soil down together with your hands, but don’t pack it too tightly. Water thoroughly. Add a 3-inch layer of compost or mulch round the base of the plant. this may keep the roots moist and funky while the plant is establishing in its new location.
Common Pests/Diseases
Peonies are especially susceptible to gray mold (botrytis). To combat, confirm peonies aren’t planted too close to every other, ensuring air circulates between plants. Using copper soap fungicides can help also.