Butternut squash (Cucurbita moschata) may be a sort of winter squash. The fruit starts out with a light-weight green skin, but its skin, or shell, turns beige when the squash is prepared to be harvested in fall. The flesh is dense and rich-orange in color. Some people roast butternut squash and use it in soups, while others boil it, mash it, and serve it in situ of mashed potatoes. This nutritious vegetable (technically a fruit) is high in vitamin A .

Butternut squash plants are annuals that grow in almost any climate. they’re planted in spring, following the last frost of the season. Their vines grow quickly, but the fruits might not be able to harvest for 3 to four months from planting time.

How to Plant Butternut Squash

If you would like a moment garden, you’ll sometimes find butternut squash seedlings purchasable in peat pots at the garden center. Peat pots break down naturally when planted within the ground, so there’s no got to do any transplanting. Butternut squash is also very easy to grow from seed.

Commonly, gardeners plant butternut squash in groups of three, forming a so-called “hill.” Hills should be spaced a minimum of 8 feet apart and will be amended before time with compost, manure, etc. Plant seeds 1/2 to 1 inch deep, in groups of 4 or five seeds. When the seedlings emerge, thin them to the spacing interval specified for the variability .

When the seedlings are young, they’re vulnerable to drought (so keep their soil moist) and to wreck from slugs and snails. make certain to require control measures against these pests. Later within the season, Japanese beetles can become a drag . you’ll dust the leaves with garden lime to discourage them or just pick them off by hand.

During the summer, butternut squash vines take advantage of regular watering and fertilizing. As fruits form on the vines, place something under them in order that they are doing not have direct contact with the soil. this may keep them dry and help prevent rotting. you’ll place small boards, flat stones, bricks, or straw mulch under them.

Butternut Squash Care
Light

Butternut squash needs full sun, ideally 6 hours per day. longer within the sun is ok , provided the plants aren’t overheated.

Soil

The soil should be rich in organic material, and it must drain well. It are often slightly acidic to neutral, with a pH of 5.5 to 7.0.

Water

Seedlings must not be allowed to dry out. because the summer progresses and therefore the vines get bigger, your plants will need even more water. During hot, dry weather, leaves may wilt on a day to day but will revive because the day cools. If leaves are wilted within the morning, water the plants directly .

Fertilizer

Butternut squash may be a heavy feeder. Start with rich soil and side-dress with organic compost or aged manure within the middle of the season. additionally, apply a compost tea or liquid fertilizer at two- to three-week intervals.

Temperature and Humidity

Squash is cold-sensitive and can not germinate unless the soil is a minimum of 70 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants love the sun, but they will overheat. During the recent days of summer, it’s normal for the leaves to wilt within the afternoon, then revive after the sun goes down. If your plants aren’t reviving, try giving them some afternoon shade.

Winter Squash vs. Summer Squash

A “winter squash” is defined as a sort of squash that features hard enough skin that it preserves well if stored during a cool place. Thus, if you were to reap one in October, it might keep until December (winter) if stored during a suitable place, like an unheated basement or cellar .

Butternut squash is simply one among several winter squashes that are commonly grown. Another popular winter squash is Hubbard squash (Cucurbita maxima), which features a gray, bumpy exterior.

In contrast to winter squashes, there also are summer squashes, like zucchini squash (Cucurbita pepo var. cylindrica). Summer squashes have a soft skin and perish quickly.

Harvesting

Use the color of the fruits to work out when to reap them. As summer winds down, their skin will begin to show light beige. they’re able to harvest when that beige color becomes deeper; the skin will often have bronze highlights (and no green streaks) in it when the fruit is ripe. Three other indicators will assist you determine maturity:

• Check the stem where it meets the fruit; it turns a brownish color (as if drying out) at maturity.
• The skin should have a dull appearance (no shine).
• Thump the fruit together with your knuckle; it should be hard and produce a hollow sound.

How to Grow Butternut Squash From Seed

Most gardeners purchase butternut squash seed packets (available at grocery stores, hardware stores, online, and from seed catalogs). Once you’ve got the seeds, you’ll start them indoors to urge a hop on the season, otherwise, you can wait until the danger of frost has passed and direct-sow outdoors. Direct seeding within the garden is simpler, but starting seeds indoors are often helpful to those in areas with short summers.

To start seeds indoors, plant them about three weeks before the last frost in spring. Fill peat pots with potting soil, and plant two seeds in each pot. Water, and place the pots during a sunny window. don’t let the soil dry out completely. If both seeds during a pot germinate, select the healthiest seedling because the one to stay and pinch out the opposite .

Now begins the hardening off process. On warm days, set the pots outdoors for a couple of hours at a time. Bring them back indoors in the dark . Gradually increase the amount of hours that they stay out. This process helps them suits the transition from an inside environment to an outside environment. Plant the peat pots within the ground once the soil temperature is a minimum of 65 degrees Fahrenheit and every one threat of frost has passed.

If you select to direct seed, simply skip to the step where you create hills and plant four or five seeds in each hill, thinning them out later.

WHERE TO PLANT SQUASH

Plant squash fully sun. Grow squash in loose, well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Prepare planting beds beforehand working in many aged compost. Add aged manure to planting beds the autumn before growing squash. Squash prefers a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.8. Summer squashes will sprawl slightly; if space is tight train them over small A-frame trellises.Squash seedling

Sow squash seeds within the garden–or began seedlings started indoors–only after the soil has warmed to a minimum of 60°F

ZUCCHINI AND SUMMER SQUASH PLANTING TIME

Summer squashes are frost-tender, warm-season annuals. Sow squash seeds within the garden–or began seedlings started indoors–only after the soil has warmed to a minimum of 60°F (16°C), usually no before 3 weeks after the last frost in spring. Start squashes indoors as early as 4 weeks before the last average frost date in spring. Sow seed indoors in biodegradable peat or paper pots which will be set directly within the garden so as to not disturb plant roots. Summer squashes grow best in air temperatures starting from 60° to 75°F (16-24°C); established fruit will ripen in temperatures as high as 100°F (37°C) but flowers will drop by high temperatures. Squashes are warm-season crops and really sensitive to cold and frost. Summer squashes require 50 to 65 days to succeed in harvest.

PLANTING AND SPACING ZUCCHINI AND SUMMER SQUASH

Sow squash seeds 2 to three inches deep. Sow squash in raised hills or inverted hills 4 to five seeds set 3 to 4 inches (7-10cm) apart; thin to the 2 strongest seedlings. Space hills 6 to eight feet (1.8-2.4m) apart. In rows, plant 2 squash seed 10 inches (25cm) apart in rows 3 to five feet (.9-1.5m) apart; thin successful seedlings in rows to three feet (.9m) apart. Thin seedlings by isolating weak seedlings at soil level with scissors so as to not disturb fragile roots. Hills or mounds should be 6 to 12 inches (15-30cm) tall and 20 inches (50cm) across. this may allow plants to run down Capitol Hill away. Inverted hills–which are often wont to retain moisture in dry regions–can be made by removing an in. of soil from a neighborhood about 20 inches across and using the soil to make a hoop or circle. Plant 4 or 5 seeds in each inverted hill. Summer squashes are often trained up a fence or trellis. Set supports in situ at the time of planting so as to not disturb growing roots.

More tips: Summer Squash and Zucchini Seed Starting Tips.Straightnext summer squash

WATER AND FEEDING ZUCCHINI AND SUMMER SQUASH

Squash grows best in soil that’s kept evenly moist. Squashes require tons of water in weather. Plants may wilt on hot days as they use water faster than the roots can supply. As long because the water is regular and deeply applied, wilted plants will enliven because the day gets cooler. Squash that’s wilted within the morning needs immediate water. Add aged compost to planting beds before planting and side-dress squash with aged compost at midseason. Side dress squash with compost tea every 2 to three weeks during the season. Avoid feeding squash with high nitrogen fertilizer, 5-10-10 is best.

Companion plants. Nasturtiums, bush peas, beans. Avoid planting summer squashes within the shadows of taller plants.

ZUCCHINI AND SUMMER SQUASH CARE

Squashes have separate male and feminine flowers. the primary flowers to seem are male flowers which will not produce fruit. Female flowers appear slightly later and are pollinated by the male flowers commonly with the assistance of insects. If pollination is slow or doesn’t occur, use a soft-bristled brush to dust inside a male flower then carefully dust the within of a female flower (a female flower will have an immature fruit on its stem, a male won’t).

Once fruits form set all on a wooden plank in order that it doesn’t have direct contact with the soil; this may allow squashes to mature with less exposure to insects.

More tips: Squash Growing.

CONTAINER GROWING ZUCCHINI AND SUMMER SQUASH

Bush-type summer squash are often grown in containers. Sow 2 or 3 seeds within the center of a 10-inch (25cm) container; thin to the strongest seedlings once plants are 3 to 4 inches (7-10cm) tall. Extend the season by planting early and moving pots indoors when frost threatens. Set a cage or trellis in situ at planting to save lots of space.

SQUASH PESTS AND DISEASES

Pests. Squash are often attacked by squash bugs, squash borers, and cucumber beetles. Handpick or hose away beetles. alittle hole within the stem or unexplained wilting may indicate the presence of borers. Slit the stem, remove the borers, and eliminate them. Cover the slit stem with soil to encourage root development from that time .

Squash borers or bacterial wilt can cause squash plants to suddenly wilt and die even as they start to supply . Bacterial wilt are often spread to squash by cucumber beetles; handpick and destroy cucumber beetles.