Taro–also called Dasheen–is a perennial tropical or subtropical plant commonly grown for its starchy but sweet flavored tuber. Taro is usually served cooked, not raw. The taro tuber is cooked sort of a potato, features a doughy texture, and may be wont to make flour. Young taro leaves and stems are often eaten after boiling twice to get rid of the acrid flavor. Cook taro leaves like spinach. A paste called poi is formed from the taro .

Description. Taro may be a perennial herb that grows from 3 to six feet tall. Its leaves are light green, elongated, and heart-shaped almost like an elephant’s ear. Tubers are spherical and about the dimensions of a ball often covered with brownish skin and hairs; the flesh is pinkish purple, beige or white. Each plant grows one large tuber often surrounded by several smaller tubers. Taro requires seven months of weather to mature.

Yield. Grow 10 to fifteen taro plants for every person within the household depending upon usage.Taro plant

Taro may be a tropical or subtropical plant that needs very warm temperatures and consistent moisture to thrive.

PLANTING TARO

Taro may be a tropical or subtropical plant that needs very warm temperatures–77° to 95°F (25-35°C)–and consistent moisture to thrive. Taro grows best in USDA zones 9-11. Taro are often grown for its tubers only where summers are long–at least 200 frost-free, warm days. Taro are often grown for its leaves during a greenhouse.

Site. Taro corms are often planted in dry or wet settings. Taro requires rich, moist, well-drained soil to moisture-retentive soil. In Asia taro is usually planted in wet paddies. In dry setting, taro corms are planted in furrows or trenches about 6 inches (15cm) deep and covered by 2 to three inches (5-8cm) of soil. Taro grown for its leaves are often grown in temperatures as low as 59°F, outdoors or during a greenhouse. Taro grows best during a soil pH between 5.5 and 6.5.

Planting time. Plant taro when the weather and soil have warmed in spring. Taro requires a minimum of 200 frost-free days to succeed in maturity.

Planting and spacing. Taro is grown from small sections of tuber, small tubers, or suckers. Plant taro in furrows 6 inches (15cm) deep and canopy corms with 2 to three inches of soil; space plants 15 to 24 inches apart in rows about 40 inches apart (or space plants equidistant 2 to three feet apart). Plants grow to about 36 inches tall and about 20 inches across.

Companion planting. A second crop of taro are often planted between taro rows about 12 weeks before the most crop is harvested.

Container growing. Taro are often grown during a container during a greenhouse or warm cellar to force shoots or stems for winter use. Force tubers during a warm bed of sand. Cut and use shoots once they reach about 6 inches tall; shoots are often blanched by placing an important burlap tent over the shoots.

CARING FOR TARO

Water and feeding. Keep taro plants well watered; the soil should be consistently moist. Water taro often in dry weather. Feed taro with rich organic, compost, or compost tea. Taro prefers a high-potassium fertilizer.

Care. Keep taro planting beds weed-free. Keep the planting bed moist. In early spring, plant pre-sprouted tubers with protection employing a plastic tunnel or cloche. Plants grown during a greenhouse should be misted often.

Pests. Aphids and red spider mite mites may attack taro grown indoors.

Diseases. Taro blight will cause circular water-soaked spots on leaves. false mildew may attack taro.Taro roots sliced

Fresh taro sliced and cubed. Taro is usually served cooked, not raw.

HARVESTING AND STORING TARO

Harvest. Taro tubers are harvested about 200 days after planting when leaves turn yellow and begin to die. Lift taro roots like sweet potatoes before the primary frost in autumn. Taro leaves are often picked as soon because the first leaf has opened; harvest taro leaves cut-and-come-again, never stripping the plant of all its leaves. Taro tubers are often boiled or fried like potatoes; taro leaves are often boiled like spinach.

Storing and preserving. Taro tubers are often left within the ground after maturing as long because the ground doesn’t freeze. Lifted taro tubers should be stored during a cool, dry place. Clean and store taro tubers like sweet potatoes. Use the most important corms first as they are doing not keep also as smaller tubers.

TARO VARIETIES TO GROW

Varieties. There are various cultivars and sorts of taro; some with purple leaves or purple veins within the leaves, some for growing in wet conditions, and a few for growing in dry conditions. Taro cultivars are often grouped by the color of their flesh–ranging from pink to yellow to white. Trinidad dasheen grows well within us .

Common name. Taro; cocoyam; dasheen; edo; alocasia plant; yu, yu tou (Chinese); woo, wu choi (Cantonese); sato-imo, kimo (Japanese).

All About taro

Taro has large leaves and maybe quite striking. Source: Joel Abroad
So what’s taro root? Well, we weren’t kidding once we said this plant is large. Mature taro plants reach 3-6 feet tall and wide. The leaves themselves can get older to three feet in size. At the bottom of the plant is one main tuber, which stores nutrients to last the plant through the winter. Fibrous roots called corms grow from this tuber, as do several smaller tubers.

Instead of stems, long and thick petioles connect the foliage on to the basis , somewhat sort of a beet plant. The leaves are heart-shaped and have distinct veins. They’re usually green, but also can be purple, red, and even black. Variegated varieties mix these colors in numerous patterns. The plant flowers rarely and sporadically. Its blossoms resemble Calla lilies, but not very noticeable among the much larger foliage.

Because it’s a tropical plant, taro is employed to an extended season . It takes seven months of warm weather to mature and goes dormant over mild winters. In cold regions, Elephant Ears are often grown as an annual for decorative purposes.

Taro has numerous different names that we can’t possibly list all of them . You’ll most frequently hear it called taro or dasheen plant, though caladium, melange, cocoyam, and eddo are common names also . Botanically, this plant is one species, Cococasia esculenta, but has plenty of cultivars.

The cultivars usually differ in color, but some have more palatable roots or must be grown a particular way. Taro can grow in dry or wet conditions, but some cultivars are only meant for one. We recommend “Bun Long” or “Elepaio” as varieties permanently root production. For just ornamental purposes, “Black Magic”, “Blue Hawaii”, or “Hilo Beauty” are excellent choices.

Let’s not forget one last detail: taro is mildly toxic when raw. the whole plant contains calcium oxalate, an acrid chemical that irritates the mouth and stomach. Thankfully, this toxin are often completely destroyed by cooking the plant well.

Planting taro

As with rice, many growers flood the young taro fields. Source: madrones
Eddo plant is grown by vegetative propagation, usually through the corms or tubers. Like potatoes, you’ll plant small tubers or portions of an outsized one. you’ll also buy taro starts from a nursery.

Choose a location with rich, moist soil that gets partial sunlight. Because they grow well in water-soaked conditions, taro plants are excellent for the water’s fringe of a backyard pond. Indoors, you’ll need a reasonably large pot and a spacious spot next to a south-facing window.

Before planting, work some organic matter into the soil. As your taro grows, it’ll love the nutrients and loamy texture. Plant each tuber 2-3 inches deep and 15-24 inches apart. a standard practice is to plant them in 6 inch furrows to conserve water.

Taro Care

Various stages of growth are often seen in these taro fields. Source: The Shifted Librarian
To keep them healthy, you’ve got to stay up with the care needs. Taro plants grow quickly, so prepare for a wild summer!

Sun and Temperature

Taro prefers partial shade or dappled sunlight. A roomy spot under a tree is perfect! If it’s indoors, provides it the maximum amount of light as possible. This plant also must be shielded from strong winds.

The ideal temperature is 77-95°F. Taro corms need a minimum of 200 days of warm, frost-free weather to mature, so you would like to time it well. If your plant lives outside year round, the temperature should be above 45°F (cooler temps may affect tuber growth). Indoor taros should only be put outside during the window between the last and first frost.

Water and Humidity

It’s vital to never let the soil dry out. The taro can grow in up to six inches of water, so don’t be shy with the watering can! This plant is right for those hard-to-fill spaces in your garden that flood frequently. During the winter, however, keep the tubers dry therefore the plant can go dormant.

High humidity is best for this plant. Indoors, use a plant humidifier to stay the taro leaves happy. you’ll also mist the plant with a sprig bottle for a few extra moisture.

Soil

Colocasia esculenta grows best in wet soil, but that doesn’t mean you ought to be planting in straight-up mud. Instead, choose soil with many humus. It must be very fertile with a loamy texture. It should stand up well while also draining enough that the roots don’t drown. a rather acidic pH of 5.5-6.5 is preferable for taro leaf.

Fertilizing

Those huge leaves need many nutrients so as to grow. alongside fertile soil, regularly treat your elephant ears to a high-potassium fertilizer during the season. you’ll want to check your soil beforehand since excess nitrogen may result in frail taro plants.

Propagation

Because flowering is so unpredictable with this plant, the division is that the best method to propagate it. Select healthy taro and obtain the entire thing. Brush the soil off the roots and you’ll see the most tuber. Search for mini tubers that have sprouted off the most one and snap them off. These little tubers should have already got some roots and perhaps even a petiole sprout. Plant each tuber directly within the ground or start them during a medium-sized container. If you kept the leaves intact, replant the most tuber.

Harvesting and Storing

The taro or corm is edible once cooked, and utilized in multiple cuisines. Source: arbyreed
Some gardeners only grow elephant’s ear as a decoration, but it’s worth harvesting a minimum of once. Here’s the way to turn that lovely plant into a tasty dish.

Harvesting

When it reaches maturity, the taro leaves will turn yellow and begin to die out. this is often your signal to reap the tubers. However, taro roots can stay within the ground until the frost comes, so you don’t need to rush to reap them. you’ll only harvest the tubers once, so say goodbye to the gorgeous leaves and devour your spade!

Lift up the whole plant, cut off the leaves, and ignore the soil. you ought to have one large tuber and a number of other smaller ones. the small tubers are often eaten or saved for planting next year. Leaves are often harvested throughout the season . Don’t take quite ⅓ of the leaves on one plant or it won’t be ready to photosynthesize also .

If you’re getting to overwinter your plant rather than harvesting it, hamper the leaves and leave the tubers within the ground. If you reside within the right area, they’ll sprout again the subsequent spring. Cold climate gardeners can remove all the tubers and overwinter them during a cool, dry location, sort of a garage or shed. The temperature should be above 45°F to stay the tubers viable.

Storing

Unlike potatoes, taro softens quickly after being harvested so you ought to eat it as soon as possible. Until then, store the roots in a dark, aerated place (not the refrigerator). Colocasia leaves should be washed and stored within the fridge up to every week.

It’s imperative that you simply cook any taro parts before consumption. The sodium oxalate lies just beneath the outside , so use gloves when preparing taro. Bake, roast, fry, or boil your taro and eat it warm (they go great with coconut milk). Taro are often prepared sort of a potato, but it doesn’t delay well when mashed.

Once cooked, taro are often frozen, and blanching before freezing is suggested . Place the taro in an airtight container and keep it within the freezer for up to a year.

Troubleshooting

Mature taro plants can take up quite a lot of space. Source: Andym5855
Most taros live their lives disease and pest-free. However, you ought to always get on the lookout for potential problems which will wipe out your harvest.

Growing Problems

The worst thing you’ll do to your Colocasia esculentais stress it out. Infrequent watering and fertilization or swinging temperatures can heavily impact the plant’s growth and health. The result might be a limited harvest and/or pest and disease problems. Make a schedule for watering and fertilization and keep your taro during a spot with consistently warm temperatures.

Underwatering will make the leaves wilt and curl . Overwatering, on the opposite hand, will make the plant mushy and invite pests and diseases. Make amendments to your watering schedule as required .

Pests

Spider mites are often quite pesky to taro, especially when grown indoors. These minuscule arachnids spin ultra-fine webs on the taro leaf and prey on its sap. They’re common in hot and dry conditions. Some simple ways to urge obviate them is to blast the plant with water or apply neem oil. Stubborn populations are often controlled with a pyrethrin insecticide.

Root knot nematodes are a standard problem in commercial taro cultivation and may be in your garden also . These parasitic roundworms chew on roots, causing the plant to yellow, weaken, and stop growing. Nematodes are often tricky to eliminate organically, especially since most nematicides exterminate beneficial nematodes also . It’s best to use beneficial nematodes to permit them to seek out and kill any of the basis knot nematodes living within the soil. you’ll prevent nematode damage by rotating your crops and removing dead plants from the soil.

Diseases

Phytophthora blight is that the disease you’re presumably to return across. It causes water-soaked lesions that rot the plant. These lesions are often amid fuzzy growth. If left untreated, blight will eventually collapse the entire plant. Prevent this disease by keeping the plant dry above ground. blight is often controlled through weekly applications of copper fungicide.

Pythium is that the fungus liable for corm rot. It’s often brought on by soggy soil conditions. This makes it difficult to regulate, as taro likes many glasses of water. Once established, this disease can’t be cured so prevention is vital. take care to avoid stagnant water, plant resistant species, and only plant corms that you simply are certain are disease-free.

Downy mildew seems like yellow or brown dust on the foliage. just like the last two diseases, it thrives in humidity and may cause severe damage. because it progresses, false mildew releases spores that easily infect neighboring plants. It can eventually spread to and kill your entire garden. Intervene as soon as possible with neem oil or copper fungicide.